Well it’s been almost 5 months since Alicia and I returned from our short little jaunt over to the U.K., and I don’t know if anyone’s actually been waiting for these travel logs or not, but they’re obviously long overdue. It ended up being a bit of work to construct coherent paragraphs from the haphazard notes that I had scribbled during our various train rides in between destinations. Posting this now seems almost irrelevant, but I still wanted to delve back into the details of the trip, if not for the benefit of other would-be travellers, then simply for my own personal enjoyment of reliving the experience.
Our U.K. adventure began with a fairly uneventful flight in to Gatwick Airport. At the time I was a little unsure if it was a good idea to fly to Gatwick, since Heathrow is obviously closer to the center of London, which was where we would be spending the first few nights. However, the Gatwick Express is a train that runs every couple of minutes directly into Victoria Station, and from there it was quite easy to catch The Underground to Russell Square.
A lot of people had warned us beforehand that taking the tube in London was super confusing and a bit overwhelming. In retrospect, I don’t know what these people were smoking because there couldn’t have been an easier or more convenient form of transportation. Not only are the trains fast and punctual, but they also provided access to a good majority of the city. (Toronto’s subway line is somewhat embarassing in comparison.)
We had booked ahead of time with the Hotel Russell in the Bloomsbury district of London. The advantage was that the hotel was located in a nice area, and central to just about everything we wanted to see. That said, it wasn’t necessarily within walking distance of a lot of major attractions, and we ended up relying on The Underground for most of the things we wanted to do. I know a lot of people who prefer to take taxis everywhere when they’re on vacation, but not only is taking the public transit cheaper, it’s also a good way to rub shoulders with the locals, if you will.
After we checked in to the hotel (which was quite nice, by our standards), we wandered across the street to Russell Square, a relaxing park where we were able to grab a quick lunch. There were pigeons and squirrels everywhere, and the pigeons were quite aggressive. There were signs warning people not to leave their food unattended, because as soon as you walked away, they would swarm the table and gulp down anything they could get their beaks on. Yikes.
For the rest of the day, we just did a lot of walking, trying to get our bearings and catch a few of the obvious sights. It was nice that many of the streets had the words “Look Left” and “Look Right” painted on the crosswalks, reminding dumb tourists like us that the cars drive on the opposite side of the road. We ended up hiking down to Piccadilly Circus, stopping at a few stores along the way including a large HMV which looked exactly like the HMVs back home (minus the Canadian content, of course). We checked out the Parliament Buildings, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey and St. James Park, where, strangely enough there was a Canadian War Memorial for Canadian soldiers who had fought in World War I and II. Then went over the bridge to The Eye and back again. We didn’t actually ride on The Eye as it seemed a bit on the pricey side, although in retrospect I kind of wish we would have done it anyway, even if it was a tacky touristy thing to do. As the trip went on, we gradually tried to stop worrying about the money so much because it can drive you mad just thinking about the exchange rate all the time.
We started to notice that almost every street or location in London has been immortalized in a song. We passed Wardour Street (The Jam’s “A Bomb On Wardour Street”), and we passed through the tube station at Mornington Crescent (Belle & Sebastian’s “Mornington Crescent”) and Leicester Square (Rancid’s “Leicester Square”). We never did get to Abbey Road, but everywhere you turned there was something that reminded you of how much history the city has to it. (Check out this massive list of songs about London.)
From there we took the subway back to our hotel as we were exhausted. For some reason I happened to see quite a lot of advertisements for books throughout The Underground. I don’t know why this struck me as odd, but you almost never see billboards or public ads for books in North America. Apparently the Brits still like to read, so good for them! We grabbed some odds and ends for supper at a grocery story just around the block from our hotel, and then I basically crashed. Alicia couldn’t sleep so she ended up staying up and watching some quality British TV for part of the night. I remember waking up a couple of times because she was laughing hysterically at a curious show called Mock The Week. It was an improvisational comedy program, sort of like Whose Line Is It Anyway?, where the comedians riff on current events and news headlines. In my drowsy state I couldn’t tell if it was actually funny, or if Alicia was just overtired. (Probably a little bit of both.)
The next morning we woke up and indulged in a nice continental breakfast downstairs in the hotel dining room. It was our first and last one, after we found out that it carried a hefty price tag of 20 pounds (almost $40 Canadian) each per day! Even if we did eat a lot for breakfast (neither us do), it still would have been a pretty outrageous price to pay. So yeah… in case you hadn’t figured it out, England can be pretty damn expensive.
On Day 2, we started by walking over to the British Museum, which was only about 10 minutes away from Russell Square. On the way there we passed a sign for some sort of Animation or Cartoon Museum which I was somewhat interested in, but we never did end up visiting it. The British Museum wasn’t the most exciting stop on our trip, although it was free, like all museums in England I believe. It did house some interesting things like the Rosetta Stone (used to decode a lot of Egyptian hieroglyphics) and a lot of cool Greek, Egyptian, African and Asian artifacts. It’s always a bit odd when you realize that these museums own things that were essentially stolen from other countries back in the day… but hey, let’s just pretend they’ve been “borrowing” the stuff for a really long time.
Then we took the tube up to Camden Market to do a little “hobnobbing” (whatever that means) and shopping. We worked our way through the throngs of people and actually found some stuff to spend money on. Alicia bought a new coat, and was able to talk the vendor down to a pretty amazing price. Myself, being the non-confrontational wuss that I am, preferred not to haggle where possible, but I ended up purchasing some classic pop culture t-shirts (that I probably could have just as easily bought somewhere in downtown Toronto). I did see some other fellow North American geeks poring over the selection of video game and movie-related garb beside me, so at least I wasn’t alone.
From here, we trucked on over to the Tower of London. The guided tour was quite entertaining, and yes, once again made even better because it was free. You follow along with an official Beefeater (not the booze) who tells stories about the many famous people who have lived and died within the walls of the tower. This is, of course, where Anne Boleyn was held before being executed on Tower Hill. Yes, the Queen’s Guard keep watch over the area, and no they won’t respond to you if you try talking to them. We also had a chance to check out the Crown Jewels, which seemed like an absolutely ludicrous display of wealth. I didn’t get a very long look at them though, because there is a moving walkway in the room that prevents you from staring at them for longer than a few seconds. I guess that’s one way to keep people from crowding around the glass cases.
On the way back, we found out why the subway trains in London are always on time. Once they start closing the doors and pulling away, they don’t stop for anything! We had tried to slip in at the last minute as one of the trains was about to leave, and as the doors were shutting I put my arm out, expecting it to react and open for me. It did not, and as I continued to walk forward, the doors shut on my backpack, almost pulling me out of the car. Luckily, a worker must have seen it and quickly released the doors again so that I could pull myself inside. All the locals were looking at me unamused, most likely muttering “Stupid American” under their breath.
Later that night we went out and caught a movie. Yeah, I know, what a lame thing to do on a Saturday night, right? The truth is, I had kind of been hoping we’d be able to see Ricky Gervais on his Fame standup comedy tour while we were in London. I had tried to order tickets before we left for our trip but alas it was sold out. Considering how expensive the list price for the tickets were, I didn’t even want to try looking into scalpers.
At Leicester Square, there were at least 5 movie theatres within a 5 minute walk of each other (not to mention a ton of stage theatres as well), and after scoping out the listings, we decided to check out Eagle vs Shark at a small indie theatre on a quiet side street. We had a bit of time to kill before the movie started so we just walked around, soaking up the vibe. The Square was absolutely packed with groups of young people going out to the pub for the night. It’s interesting because in England you can drink in public, with the exception of The Underground where a police officer can ask you to hand it over (but only if he feels you’re out of line). Clearly it’s a recipe for disaster, and I’m guessing it can get quite rowdy on some nights. That said, I think most people live in pretty tight quarters in London, so being able to hang out in public places with their “mates” is a pretty important aspect of their lives.
Eagle vs Shark was a lot of fun, and I’m glad we got a chance to see it. Something tells me that Kiwi comedy is a close relation to the dry British sense of humour because the small crowd was loving it. One thing though — there were wayyyyy too many commercials before the movie started. If you think we have it bad in North America, think again.
For the most part, London felt like a big European city to me, but kind of similar to Toronto in some ways. It’s very multicultural, and perhaps the touristy nature of it made it a bit difficult to get a distinctly British experience out of it. Some of the chain stores were different, but the fact remained that there were still major chain stores and franchises everywhere. The world is starting to blur together I think.
And just like that, our time in London was drawing to a close. Realistically, we probably would have needed at least a week to get to all the things that we wanted to see, but I was ready to move on to the next stage of the trip. The next morning, we caught the tube up to Paddington Station, and from there took a train to Bath. We passed through the London suburb of Slough on the way out, which some may recognize as the place where the British version of The Office is set. (Incidentally, Ali G’s neighbourhood in Staines is just outside of London as well.)
Next up: Bath, Stonehenge and York!













Great stuff Sean. Even though I feel like I know wayyyy too much about you and your family affairs by reading stuff like this (I think voyeuristic is the term for how it feels?), I still read it and enjoy myself.
Having lived in London for a few years (and visited Niagara Falls on my honeymoon - well we had to really), it is interesting to see your views on Blighty.
I don’t think the majority of Brits think the UK is expensive, just that North America is cheap. It is much more expensive in Scandinavia for example. It is also much more expensive in the tourist traps of London and Bath etc. than in the rest of the country. I am originally from Northern England and am still astounded at the differences in prices when I go and visit my relatives “Up North”
Henrik: Thanks buddy. I guess part of the appeal of a blog is the voyeurism aspect, but I try to only write about stuff in my life that I think other people would find interesting anyway.
Mick: That’s a good point, I guess you get accustomed to whatever the prices are like where you live. I remember hearing that Scandinavia is really expensive too (their taxes are really high too, right?), and it makes sense that London would be more expensive than less touristy areas of England. In fact, I’m pretty sure every other place we stopped on our trip was indeed cheaper than London. New York City is really expensive too… so what can you do?
The lowest tax rate here is 38%, and if you earn enough, you pay 60% tax of your last earned cash. A little tricky to explain, but basically untill you earn 10 you par 38%, 10 to 30 you pay 49% or so, everything over 30 you pay 60% of. Make sense? Also all products have a 25% toll on their original prize. In return, you get stuff like free healthcare, you get paid to educate yourself etc.
We are a very progressive society, but of course there is a backlash, and regressive ideals have been on the rise for the past decade or so. Taxes are being cut, the rich are getting richer etc. Hopefully we will soon return to our northern ways of rationality and common sense.
I don’t know if I ever mentioned this on here before, but I was watching an episode of 20/20 a while back that talked about the concept happiness, and apparently in one particular study, Denmark was found to be the happiest nation in the world. They speculated that the socialist government was part of it, and also the fact that the population is not very diverse culturally (seems like kind of an non-PC thing to suggest, but I can see what they mean by it).
I’d be curious to find out where Canada fit into that study. We do have free health care, but not free education. Plus the winter weather here can be depressing too.
Ah, snow! I really miss snow, living in the south of England but being a northerner. It seems like global warming has bollocksed the chance of us ever getting it again.
I watched “Sicko” recently and the portrait of our health service made me feel smug until I saw the French setup.
It also made me really really certain that I never want to work in the US.
Ever.
Ever.
We nearly moved to Canada on a couple of occasions, but family ties kept getting itn the way.
Of course the grass is always greener…..
And just to say that FilmJunk is my favourite of the 50 podcasts that I currently subscribe to. But only when Greg is there. Or perhaps when Reid Farrington isn’t (although the episodes when he is do make for an amusing divertissment)
Thanks Mick, much appreciated. Greg will be very pleased to hear this as well.
I do feel like I`d miss snow without it, but then when it comes around every year I can`t wait for it to be gone again.
Snow is romantic, but only good when you’re on the inside looking out. I always hated snowfights, and I hate being uncomfortable. Any type of downpour makes me uncomfortable - but I will admit it is romantic to look out a window and see snow falling, while holding a cup of hot cocoa.
[...] town” songs but I guess it holds a special place in my…… liver. Sean Dwyer says in his travelog: “We started to notice that almost every street or location in London has been immortalized [...]